Agriturismo Torrevecchia

Salento has some of the most beautiful farms, very ancient and immersed in the silence of the countryside, which have been transformed into organic production companies, surrounded by olive trees. Among these, the Agriturismo Torrevecchia is an example.

Their charm is unquestionable, not only beautiful beaches and sea, but also walks among the olive trees and tasting genuine foods. Nature, archeology and architecture have mixed to give rise to a paradise on earth, where walking along ancient paths and coming into contact with the beauty of nature leads you to relive a past that we often forget.

The farms in Puglia were fortified agricultural companies, but today, wonderfully renovated, they have become an alternative destination for tourism and for a different holiday oriented towards relaxation and connection with the territory. For some of them, has become symbiotic: this is the case of organic farms, such as Agriturismo Torrevecchia.

The farm

As I headed towards their facility, located on the outskirts, just a few kilometers outside San Pancrazio Sal. no (BR), on the way to Avetrana, I took some time to enjoy the almost overwhelming tranquility that the landscape and its infinite beauty exuded. I couldn’t help but admire the warmth of the stone of the dry stone walls of the small paths and the soft colors of the surrounding countryside, helping to create an atmosphere of tranquility and relaxation, immersing the senses in the peace of uncontaminated nature.

As soon as you cross the entrance threshold of the structure, you cannot help but notice the immense expanse of land, 200 hectares. The owners are already on site, intent on taking care of the vineyards, olive groves, vegetable gardens, orchards, cereal production, sheep, cattle, goat and farmyard animal breeding, the marvelous horticultural greenhouse and gardens. Welcoming guests with such courtesy and kindness is Chiara, the owners’ daughter, who told me the history of the farm.

The rooms of Agriturismo Torrevecchia

Torrevecchia is a typical and extraordinary rural building, a symbol and monument of peasant civilization dating back to 1300, although documentation demonstrates its existence since 1275. Furthermore, great attention was paid in the restoration work to ensure that the floor with its typical “chianche” of Salento and the imposing tuff stone walls embellished with barrel and star vaults, brought to light the authentic atmosphere of ancient times.

Witnesses are the rooms and large rooms of the restaurant, which inside contain real and authentic objects in wood, wrought iron and ceramics of inestimable value.

The original large fireplace, present at the entrance of the farm, welcomes guests, accompanying them into the heart of the ancient residence. Overlooking the old “court”, the ancient rooms intended for the “massari“: those who worked and resided at the same farm, have become large and comfortable bedrooms, to guarantee the right comfort without sacrificing the traditional style of the place. While, surrounded by greenery, overlooking the large swimming pool, you will find the new pastel-coloured rooms. The Agriturismo Torrevecchia offers the possibility of choosing the type of accommodation that best reflects the needs of its guests.

There is a beautiful semi-Olympic swimming pool overlooking the greenery of the place, open from June until the first week of September. You will be able to experience relaxing and socializing by the pool, perhaps tasting a glass of good house wine! During the beautiful days you can sunbathe on the large solarium terrace, equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas or rent bikes to enjoy the view. In the area, a few meters away, there is an ancient crypt called “Angel’s Cave” dating back to the 7th century AD. C. with a sacred function, rich in Byzantine frescoes, gives the structure an artistic-cultural touch.

The products of the farm

I was then invited by Chiara to take a tour of the places where everything comes to life: seeing the animals well cared for inside their stables and left free made me understand how much it means for them to act with respect for nature and authenticity of the product. It is precisely from here that those fresh products are born: from the cacio ricotta to the “giuncata“, the “strong” ricotta and followed by the fresh cheeses, the pecorino with a stronger taste, up to the “primo sale” and others.

The freshness of the vegetables picked directly from the garden which, following seasonality, alternate in the fields, the variety of typical cheeses, the meats from the farms together with the extra virgin olive oil with adjoining oil mill, the Negroamaro and the Primitivo of their own production and the pasta of “durum wheat”, constitute the main ingredients of our cuisine.

In the morning, you are inebriated by an explosion of scents that lead you into the breakfast room. Here a long table, well cared for and studied down to the smallest detail, offers guests cereals, frize, taralli, tasty jams, accompanied by fragrant freshly baked cakes and biscuits prepared following traditional family recipes. Followed by the scent of fresh cow’s milk, a magical ingredient for a hot and creamy cappuccino.

Inside the structure, educational workshops are organized, which invite young guests to learn about life in the fields and on the farm, for direct contact with the animals, crops, open spaces and rural traditions full of emotions.

The Torrevecchia farmhouse guarantees a relaxing stay, immersed in the tranquility of the Salento countryside, among food and wine experiences and cultural realities waiting to be discovered!

The B&B Salento Sun Sea is located in the heart of a small and characteristic village in Salento, precisely in San Pancrazio Salentino, a strategic point as it is just a few kilometers from Porto Cesareo, Porto Selvaggio, Riva degli Angeli, Punta Prosciutto on the Ioanian sea, as well as Brindisi with the Torre Guaceto Marine Park on the Adriatic, from Lecce, city of the Baroque, Taranto, capital of Magna Grecia and guardian of the most famous gold in the world. All destinations reachable in about thirty minutes!

The atmosphere of the B&B Salento Sun Sea

A few days ago, I was invited by Denise, my dear friend and owner of the b&b, to get to know the place.

Its location, near the historic center of the town, allows you to reach it on foot, or by parking your car in the car park reserved for guests.

As soon as I opened the massive wooden door of the main entrance and crossed the threshold, I was immediately catapulted into another place.

The house, now renovated, takes us back to reliving that atmosphere of the past, when numerous families lived together. A place of aggregation, meeting and serenity.

Here, even the stones that cover the supporting columns and arches seem to exude an atmosphere of romance and elegance. The high ceilings with star vaults and the imposing staircase on the left are examples of timeless beauty that never goes out of fashion.

The entrance to the bed and breakfast seems to herald the surprises that await guests upstairs, with a long staircase. As soon as I started climbing, I immersed myself in the pleasant atmosphere and peaceful silence of the place.

At the entrance, Denise’s warm smile greeted me, just as her guests do as soon as they cross the threshold. She is a very energetic person and you can tell that she really loves what she does. Her enthusiasm literally infected me, proudly showing me the commitment and passion she puts into her work.

The services of the Salento Sun Sea B&Bs

I was hosted in the first room, the hub of the house, which welcomes customers with a large fireplace which is lit in winter for a warmer atmosphere. It is here that breakfast, an important moment, is served by Denise who undertakes to prepare it every morning, starting from homemade desserts, such as cakes, donuts, tarts and biscuits, which I was able to taste during our conversation, or a breakfast savory based on cured meats, cheeses, taralli, etc. Furthermore, upon request, a vegan or intolerant breakfast can be served, all in full respect of the authenticity and well-being of her guests.

On sunny summer days, on the small terrace in front of the rooms, a large gazebo is mounted and arranged to welcome guests at breakfast time or transformed into an event area.

In the same room used for breakfasts, video conferences, project presentations and video surveillance and alarm and photography courses are also organised.

And if you need to extend your stay and don’t know how to get around for lunch or dinner, don’t worry! Upon request, Denise will recommend a restaurant affiliated with the property.

The rooms of the structure

Having offered me coffee, Denise also spoke to me about the various Grottaglie ceramics which populate the various rooms, including the majestic wall lamps in the atrium of the structure which illuminate, creating a particular play of light and some paintings which, through the warm and therapeutic colours, convey a sense of serenity and beauty that only our Salento can offer!

The 6 bedrooms are well distributed over the two floors, 2 on the ground floor including a double bedroom with en-suite bathroom and a bedroom with a single bed, while 4 on the first floor: a single bedroom with balcony and private external bathroom and 3 double bedrooms with bathroom private, one of which is a double suite with a comfortable lounge area with adjoining terrace overlooking the town.

In the rooms, soft and delicate colors prevail which highlight the modern furnishings in perfect harmony with the ancient and well-renovated exterior.

All rooms are equipped with all comforts: air conditioning, flat-screen TV with satellite channels, complimentary toiletries, hairdryer, electric kettle.

Furthermore, as guests of the Salento Sun Sea, you can enjoy free wi-fi in all areas.

The atmosphere and hospitality of the B&B will offer you a relaxing and welcoming stay just a few steps from the sea!

With the arrival of December, the traditional appointment with one of the most important Christmas folkloristic events of the year is renewed, which finds its maximum representation in Salento. What Christmas would it be without the nativity scene? Especially in our Salento, the tradition of setting up the nativity scene in one’s homes is still alive and deeply felt. This is considered an extraordinarily poetic and romantic element, unlike the more recent Christmas tree, which refers to the profane and consumerist element of the holiday.

For the occasion, there is no municipality in Salento that does not organize an artistic or living nativity scene, to worthily celebrate the arrival of the festival.

The origins

• Historically, the merit of having “invented” the nativity scene was attributed to San Francesco who referred to the sacred representations which, since the very early Middle Ages, were staged in churches during the liturgy on Christmas night. The Saint of the Poor reproduced the scene of the Nativity in Greccio, a small village in the province of Rieti, in 1223, according to the testimony of Saint Bonaventure, with flesh and blood characters, to bring closer even to humble and simple people and to the illiterate, who could not read the Holy Scriptures, the miracle of the birth of Jesus.

• The custom of setting up artistic nativity scenes became so popular that many other churches soon joined it, each creating its own particular and unique nativity scene.

Nativity scenes in Salento

The Salento boasts an enviable record in terms of nativity scenes, preserving an ancient tradition. The first artistic nativity scene in the world, in fact, was created in Lecce by San Francesco in 1222. San Francesco, returning from a trip to the East, stopped to spend the holidays in Lecce. Here, he would have created an artistic nativity scene with terracotta statues, a year before the “living nativity scene” of Greccio.

Nativity scenes, of all types, living, artistic, mechanical, very small and enormous, are made in every corner of our province. In the streets of the villages, in the churches, in the squares, in the country farms, in the “trappeti“, in the quarries and on the promontories of the Salento Murge, in the caves on the seashore, if not actually at the bottom of the sea.

Nativity scenes are usually characterized by a walking route that allows you to relive and rediscover the ancient traditions and crafts that marked the era in which the Child was born. The path, with a suggestive and magical atmosphere, mixes with the sweet arias of Christmas carols often performed live, which leads to the Bethlehem cave in a continuous celebration of lights, colors and sounds given by the noises and the exploits of the people in costume.

Christmas is the most magical holiday of the year which brings with it infinite traditions, rites, legends, proverbs and popular sayings, which combine the sacred with the profane. It is certainly the most heartfelt holiday and is first and foremost a moment of aggregation and union to spend with loved ones: I’m from Salento and I do not miss being in the company of my family on those days! The Christmas period is therefore a congenial period to experience Christmas in perfect Apulian style, especially at the table.

The preparation of typical foods for the Christmas period is a thought that haunts Salento grandmothers very soon! So let’s take a dive into Christmas of the past, to see how this holiday was experienced by our ancestors. According to tradition, there had to be thirteen dishes for Christmas lunch even if, in the past, the economic conditions of the family were certainly not very good and then the ingredients were also counted in order to arrive at the canonical number thirteen. Surely, ciciri and tria, purciddhuzzi and ncarteddhate could never be missing.

Purciddhuzzi

The purciddhuzzi, so called because they had the shape of a little pig’s snout, with a dough similar to the cartellate and flavored with citrus fruits, fried in boiling oil and decorated with sweets, are a recipe of Persian origin, brought by the Arabs to Spain and then by the Spaniards in Puglia.

Ncarteddhate

The ncarteddhate, with the name “incartocciate” and the arabesque shape, are spirals of sweet dough fried and then immersed in cooked wine. Their shape resembles a rose but tradition also associates them with the halo of Baby Jesus. Even these, fried and then “candied“, i.e. dipped in heated honey and then sprinkled with sugar, were served together with other sweets, such as anisetti, which were small and multi-coloured sugared almonds, similar to grains of wheat. You can enjoy fragrant ones while doing Christmas shopping at the Santa Lucia Fair or the Pupi Fair in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, two fundamental moments of Christmas in Lecce. Some scholars derive this dessert from a Moroccan specialty, or rather from the most typical Moroccan dessert, cebakeia, prepared during the Ramadan period.

Almond paste fish

Another culinary custom on Christmas Eve is the fish made with almond paste which recalled Christ, represented in the Christian iconography of the first centuries with the symbol of the fish, which very often appeared in the catacombs where persecuted Christians took refuge. Through this delicacy we take a step back in the history of southern Italy since its origins date back to the 18th century and it is considered a diplomatic dessert that the nuns prepared as gifts to cardinals, bishops and important people. And it was the noble abbess Anna Fumarola of the Benedictine monastery of San Giovanni Evangelista in Lecce who introduced the use of filling almond fish with “faldacchiera“, a cream of eggs and sugar.

It seems incredible but even today the best Christmas fish is produced by them, the cloistered nuns of this convent in Via delle Benedettine 4, founded in 1133 by the Norman Count Accardo. The true people of Lecce know this address well and in the days before Christmas they queue at the side door of the convent, a sort of pilgrimage of taste and tradition.

The pittule

According to the Apulian tradition, “pittule” certainly cannot be missing from the table at Christmas! These can be simple or sweet, sweetened and filled with apple, or savory filled with boiled cauliflower, boiled turnip tops or with cherry tomatoes, onion, black olives and chilli pepper, or even with pieces of salted anchovies. Pittule, excellent if eaten hot, just removed from the frying oil, could be accompanied by lu cottu, that is, cooked wine, and, together with pucce and taraddhi, accompanied the entire Christmas period.

The mostaccioli

“Li Mustazzoli” or Mostaccioli are the symbolic biscuits of Salento and testify to the passage of the Arab population to the heel of Italy. It is a real local specialty, the pride of the fairs and patronal festivals where you can meet local artisans with their stalls, where you can buy or taste these delicacies which, since the end of the nineteenth century, from generation to generation, they represent a must in their production and in Salento pastry making. Mostaccioli are desserts of Arab origin and their preparation did not involve the use of yeast. These biscuits, which in other areas of Southern Italy are typically Christmassy, in Salento can be enjoyed at any time of the year and are ideal for breakfast, a snack or at the end of a meal, accompanied by an excellent glass of wine or liqueur.

Apulian Christmas at the table: 7, 24 and 25 December

Usually, on December 7, the eve of the Immaculate Conception, many families still observe fasting, with the only infraction of consuming lunch with a puccia, white and spongy bread, seasoned with tuna and capers and pittule.

Christmas Eve dinner is an institution. Preparations begin a few days before, the table is set with red and silver/gold tablecloths, and a fish-based menu is served: spaghetti with mussels or seafood risotto; tradition requires cod as a second course and countless side dishes.

Lunch on Christmas Day is meat-based: after a classic baked pasta or pasta with sauce/ragout, lamb with potatoes is the highlight.

On the 26th, Santo Stefano Day, many families treat themselves to a purifying broth after the binges of the previous days. For the most tenacious families, there is still room for another lunch!

In Puglia there are many Christmas markets and villages that enliven the Salento festivities. It is a series of events, installations and shows that offer an opportunity for fun for adults and children.

Some of them, in my opinion, stand out for their tradition and participation so much so that they are among the most beautiful in the region.

Christmas markets in Borgo Egnazia

Christmas is approaching and with it brings with it the magical and warm atmosphere that characterizes it and which also envelops Borgo Egnazia, in Savelletri di Fasano, one of the most beautiful places in Puglia, a triumph of beauty, history and gastronomy, ready for you to experience a Christmas fairy tale.

The structure is entirely built in tuff, the local stone and cut by hand by the expert hands of the master tufa workers and finally thanks to the architect and set designer Pino Brescia who was inspired by the architecture of the Apulian farms and rural villages, by nature and simplicity, we have managed to achieve élite tourism.

Borgo Egnazia: the structure

The imposing structure is the undisputed queen of Apulian hospitality, which blends tradition and innovation, contemporaneity and authenticity, simplicity and majesty.

The rooms are divided into three categories: The Court, the Borgo, the Villas. We also find two private beaches, within which there is the Water Sport center and La Fonte ideal with three large outdoor swimming pools, a heated indoor swimming pool, three tennis courts and an 18-hole course overlooking the sea, located on the border between the ancient archaeological city of Egnathia and the small port of Savelletri. The route winds between the rocky profiles of the Adriatic Sea, in the expanse of Mediterranean vegetation and fields cultivated with vegetables and centuries-old olive trees.

Finally, the elegant spa which accompanies visitors on a sensorial journey between emotions and sport with daily relaxation in the open air to rediscover instinct and naturalness. In short, a perfect mix that manages to combine the most genuine local traditions with top-level services.

The spectacular location, capable of providing intense emotions, is the ideal destination for those who want to spend the holidays diving into the flavors and ancient traditions of Puglia.

A unique place that still takes on the values of the past and are in perfect harmony with the territory and a breathtaking landscape.

The Christmas Markets in Borgo Egnazia: the event

Borgo Egnazia will host the “Christmas Markets”, an event that will transport you to a celebration of colours, flavors and joy and which will be open to everyone and not just guests staying in the structure.

Here visitors will be able to experience the thrill of walking through the suggestive alleys, shopping among the stalls and then entering some of the “little houses” transformed for the occasion into small shops in which to discover Apulian craftsmanship: embroidery and lace, ceramics , or taste typical flavors such as breasts, roasted chestnuts, pancakes, biscuits and sweets among the scent of mulled wine, cotton candy, other products from our local talents and some of the best Apulian wines.

The lights, bonfires and music will animate the large square, the heart of Borgo Egnazia, which will be the setting for this wonderful painting.

And for a full immersion in the typically Apulian festive atmosphere, even some pampering at the Vair Spa, an excellent compromise, a holiday proposal in fact, which combines the uniqueness of the area and those of the structure itself.

And to end on a high note, at the La Frasca restaurant, the authentic Apulian trattoria in Borgo Egnazia, with the pleasure of a traditional dinner, it is a unique opportunity to rediscover the deep peasant roots of Apulian cuisine.

There are more than a hundred castles and palaces still in excellent condition scattered throughout Salento and some of these are true artistic heritages of enormous historical value. Scattered across the provinces of Lecce, Taranto and Brindisi, these castles are evidence of past colonizations and the fortification necessary for the defense of the most noble families.

We therefore list the 5 most beautiful castles to visit during your trip to Salento!

Gallipoli Castle

Dominating the profile of the old city of Gallipoli is the Angevin Aragonese Castle, the imposing manor that stands in the eastern area of the island which houses the ancient village, near the bridge that links the old part of the city to the new one.

Built in the 13th century at the behest of Carlo I d’Angiò, it underwent radical changes over time, until the 16th century, when a fifth tower was also added, which served to defend against sea attacks and protect access to the city. It is a fortified construction with characteristics of high military engineering that can be visited today. Most likely the Angevins and the Aragonese made substantial changes to the castle of Roman origin: the quadrangular plan of the structure, equipped with three towers and a polygonal tower, was almost completely isolated by moats on all sides. Furthermore, in 1522, the Rivellino was built, i.e. a fifth circular tower, lower and wider than the others, in an advanced position with respect to the city walls. A sort of vanguard in the defensive system.

Today, the entire Castle has been redeveloped and thanks to a new project, areas have been created for the creation of exhibitions, cultural events and small theatrical shows.

Carlo V Castle in Lecce

The Carlo V Castle of Lecce is the leading star of the cultural circuit of Salento, revamped in every aspect and function and transformed into an evocative setting for cultural events of various types, from artistic exhibitions to food and wine events, as a center for the dissemination of traditions and local riches.

It was Carlo V of Habsburg who wanted its construction which is now located in the city center near Piazza Sant’Oronzo. It is a very large building with a quadrangular shape which has four bastions at the four corners. You enter from the Royal Door which gives access to the internal courtyard of the Castle. In the past the building had a military function, it even had a moat along its entire perimeter (today the moat no longer exists) and even today you can see the positions where the artillery pieces were located. Then, from 1870 to 1979 it became a barracks until the Military Administration handed it over to the Municipality of Lecce.

Today it is a visitable space where art exhibitions, conferences and cultural initiatives are held. Symbol of local artistic craftsmanship, papier-mâché is the protagonist of the museum set up in the Carlo V Castle. Walking through the regal rooms, you can admire a collection of around 80 works created by the major local papier-mâché makers from the 18th century to the present day. Videos, images and reconstructions of real “shops” make the visit even more fascinating.

Copertino Castle

Among the many castles that make a fine display in Salento, that of Copertino deserves a special mention, located in Piazza Castello, a fortified complex built in the 1530s and completed in 1540 by the Apulian architect Evangelista Menga by will of the Marquis Alfonso Granaries Castriota. The latter was a general of Carlo V and feudal lord of the large county established in 1266 by Carlo I d’Angiò.

Copertino castle, with a quadrilateral plan, contains previous buildings within it, including the Angevin tower, dating back to the first structure. The manor, home to numerous noble families, is a very important example of military architecture. It is surrounded by a large moat carved into the rock and four bastions at the corners.

Entering through the Renaissance style door you enter the internal courtyard, from which it is possible to admire various buildings dating back to different eras. On the right there is a portal with a tympanum that leads to the chapel dedicated to San Marco. The small church, with a rectangular plan and barrel vaults, houses the tombs of the marquises, created by the master L. A. Russo and the frescoes created by the local painter Gianserio Strafella.

The upper floor is accessed via an open staircase that leads to the rooms of the old palace, dating back to 1400 and 1500. Here, in the approximately twenty rooms that make up the floor, the barons lived. Halfway up the stairs you can see the remains of the 15th century frescoes from the old Maddalena chapel.

The Angevin Castle is the main protagonist for events, gastronomy, artistic and cultural events with national and international artists.

Castle de’ Monti of Corigliano d’Otranto

Walking through the many streets of Salento, you cannot fail to visit the Castle of Corigliano d’Otranto, which represents the most complete model of the transition of military architecture from square to round towers: in fact it has a quadrangular layout with four corner towers, surrounded by a deep ditch.

Each tower presents the heraldic coat of arms of the de’ Monti accompanied by allegorical depictions of the four cardinal virtues and by bas-reliefs of as many Saints under whose protection each tower is placed. Looking at the main facade, the tower on the left is dedicated to San Michele Arcangelo whose effigy is flanked by the allegory of the fortress; the tower on the right is dedicated to Sant’Antonio Abate who is accompanied by the allegory of temperance. The other towers are dedicated to San Giorgio and San Giovanni Battista, whose bas-reliefs are associated with allegorical representations of prudence and justice respectively.

Having lost its original defensive function, in the mid-seventeenth century the castle was adapted, according to the fashion of the time, to the aesthetic and representative needs of the feudal lord’s family, creating a baroque façade superimposed on the pre-existing one.

Today it is possible to visit the Castle for free or for a fee with a guide, but events are often organized by the Korianì social cooperative, such as stargazing from the Castle terraces.

Acaya Castle (LE)

A few kilometers from the Salento Adriatic coast, not far from Lecce, there is the village of Acaya, formerly called Segine. It is one of the castles built according to the most representative military techniques of Salento.

Today the fortified village of Acaya Castle is a point of reference for numerous cultural events. Very evocative is the historical procession and palio of the families, a Renaissance festival with nobles, ladies, knights, magistrates, falconers, musicians and commoners, a historical re-enactment that attracts numerous visitors.

The castle entirely built in Lecce stone, together with the fortified village, is linked to the figure of Gian Giacomo d’Acaya, military architect of Carlo V, who made numerous changes in the mid-sixteenth century, so much so that the city changed its name in his honour, from Segine in Acaya.

The castle was once entirely surrounded by a moat. It has two circular towers in Lecce stone and a spearhead bastion to the south-east. The fortress is accessed from the north through an entrance hall that led to the stables, beneath which there was once an underground oil mill. During the works, a late Byzantine fresco was also found, depicting religious motifs, perhaps pertaining to a monastic complex that housed religious communities of the Greek rite. The elegant and residential part was located on the upper floors and consisted of six rooms. In the square room of the bastion there is a painting representing the coat of arms of the Spanish kings.

The church was rebuilt by Gian Giacomo on an already existing medieval one, built by Pietro dell’Acaya in 1420. Of this church, only the bell tower and the sacristy remain as evidence.

To conclude, if you want to take a tour of the Castles in Salento, you can’t miss the ones mentioned above.

Very often olive tree branches, vine shoots and prickly pear stems hide old scars: abandoned ruins that demonstrate, to us who approach respectfully, the pride of being part of the red and warm land of Salento. The farmhouses (called “masserie“) are the undisputed object of our memory, the testimony of what we are, the pretext to remain linked to our roots in Salento.

History and function of Salento farmhouses

The masseria, from the Latin massa, or “set of estates”, is a rural building settlement typical of the 16th – 17th century, which for a long time represented the most widespread type of company (agricultural-pastoral in nature) in Puglia, becoming full expression of local peasant culture.

Beyond the agricultural aspect, the masserizio phenomenon is linked, without a shadow of a doubt, to a defensive function: after the fall of the Byzantine Empire, in 1453, the Salento peninsula became a frequent destination for looting and pirate incursions. During the 16th century, to overcome such attacks, Charles V of Habsburg decided to strengthen the Adriatic and Ionian coast by implementing a defense plan which led to the construction of towers and walls around the farms which for this reason were defined as “fortified“.

The “fortified farm” is a structure built in the countryside and isolated from urban centers, with the intention of protecting the safety of its inhabitants, and therefore always protected by a massive fence, the ideal place in which to defend oneself from pirates, by the Saracens and brigands who raged in Southern Italy. This phenomenon is visible throughout the Adriatic coast of Salento, from Brindisi to Otranto and also on the Ionian side, from Capo di Leuca.

It can therefore be stated with certainty that the birth of these rural complexes is linked to the socio-economic context of Southern Italy.

Architecture of the Salento farms

The farms were built taking into account a certain aesthetic and architectural taste, thanks to the skill of craftsmen and bricklayers who worked stone, carparo or tuff. At the same time, these are settlements built with a view to functionality, to make life in the fields less difficult and therefore to lighten the settlers’ fatigue, offer practical solutions and guarantee maximum usability of the environments, in a perfect balance between man and nature, between the artefact and the territory.

The typical layout of the farm in some cases included a construction of the type closed towards the outside and with the openings all facing inside the courtyard or large courtyard. Various rooms were distributed around the courtyard: the farmer’s house, the stables and pens for the animals, the structures intended for the conservation and processing of the products of the land and livestock or stables for the horses or mules as well as the rooms for chickens, rabbits and various farmed birds. Other rooms were used for storing work tools and as a shelter for the owner’s carriages. Furthermore, there were also wells called “pile“, that is, stone containers that contained water for laundry, drinking troughs and granaries for preserves.

The same perimeter walls, without openings, acted as protection against intruders and malicious people, also allowing a possible defense against attacks by bandits.
Generally a part of the building for residential purposes had one or more upper floors in which the “master” and his family lived. The lower floors were used for housing by the farmers and as warehouses for supplies. In most cases a chapel or church was built which was used for various religious functions.

Different types of farm

There are several farm buildings in Salento:

• at court, the farm is built within walls that enclose it, defending it from external threats.
• with a trullo roof: houses and haystacks have a trullo roof and are of different sizes. Some examples are Masseria Ortolini and Masseria Ferrari (residents in Martina Franca).
• with pignon roof: the roof of the house is a pignon, steep roof and the buildings intended for the tasks have a trullo roof.
• linear construction: farms that are characterized by being a single building, with the houses joined to the other buildings.
• a casino: construction that developed in the 19th century and which marks the clearest distinction between the owner’s house and the company (e.g. Luco, Mita).

The Farmer

In these rural sediments they were initially inhabited by farmers, the so-called “massari” (responsible for the agricultural land), who dedicated their lives to the cultivation of products necessary for their sustenance, that is, cultivation of wheat, cereals, olives, in addition to livestock breeding and milk and cheese production.

The farm was not owned by the settler who lived there and cultivated the surrounding lands, but by the landowner who allowed the farmer to stay there with his family, enjoying part of the harvest.

From past to present: the farmhouses in Salento today

From the mid-17th century, some improvements in the agricultural sector allowed the rural environment to be further enhanced, leading to the birth of the farmhouse-villa in Salento.

The farms are therefore enriched with rich portals, balconies and viewpoints, gardens and stucco decorations and frescoed ornaments which transform these rural and spartan structures into small jewels of fine architecture, holiday resorts.

Today they appear on state roads or in the countryside, with grandeur and dignity. Some have been restored and sometimes used for tourism, hosting farmhouses, B&Bs or charming resorts, but also private villas equipped with all comforts. Once productive environments, the oil mills, the mangers, the millstones are restored to allow the most attentive tourists to rediscover the culture and rural tradition.

Rusticity thus becomes an added value of tourism. Others, completely abandoned, experience a difficult and, perhaps, risky solitude, but not without charm, like that of Monteruga. An immense farmhouse in the countryside of San Pancrazio, Salice and Veglie, once the center of intense agricultural activity, and now abandoned.

The Salento peninsula has been the “gateway to Italy” for centuries, a border territory, where historical events have influenced the fabric of the settlement fabric and have determined architecture that still stands out today for its monumentality. The ancient coastal towers in Salento are some of the most important historical testimonies of the period in which the region represented the frontier of Europe, the bridge from the Western world to the East.

It may be the intersection between sky and sea, it may be that they tell a distant story, it may be that hint of wildness that they still retain, but the almost one hundred coastal towers of Salento really deserve to be seen.

Like silent guardians in stone, imposing, overlooking the sea, some ruins that seem to emerge from the rocks, others solitary like nobles in exile, chase each other endlessly, defining the first defensive line of the South against the raids of pirates, Saracens and Turks.

Historical aspect of the coastal towers in Salento

• The first towers in Salento were built during the Roman Empire: others followed, built in the Middle Ages, under Swabian domination and then under Angevin domination. The construction of the towers followed very specific criteria, as they had to be able to communicate with the nearest ones, through precise light signals put in place by sentries located at the top, in order to signal possible dangers coming from the sea. Furthermore, their location was chosen in order to have the best possible view also towards the hinterland, so that any alarm signals could be launched promptly from the fortification.

• However, the phenomenon took on considerable importance between 1558 and 1567, to deal with the continuous raids. 339 towers were built throughout the South and 96 in Puglia alone: 16 in the Bari area, 80 in the Otranto area, a much larger area, as we know, than the current Province of Lecce.

• Unfortunately, most of them show all the signs of aging, but others have been the subject of recovery and restoration and all their peculiarities have been brought to light.

Structure of the coastal towers in Salento

• The towers of the medieval era were built mainly with a square plan, with a scarp base and a top terrace demarcated by battlements with slits on the walls.
• During the Renaissance era the towers generally took on a circular shape, with the entrance often placed on the upper floor.
• At the end of the 15th century, the Kingdom of Naples, faced with the intensification of attacks, decided to restore and complete the system of coastal towers. Tall, majestic in the severe simplicity of the architectural lines, they are cylindrical and quadrangular with a truncated pyramidal base.
• Missing, at least in the Lecce area, are those in the shape of a star or a “priest’s hat” as in the case of those of Torre Santa Sabina and San Pietro in Bevagna. The former, which are the oldest, were mainly for sighting purposes, the latter also had defensive purposes and were equipped with catapults, thrusters, culverins and firearms: some recovered and are in an excellent state of preservation, others, unfortunately, in state of total abandonment. Sometimes they are real fortresses such as the so-called tower of the Four Columns of Santa Maria al Bagno of which only the four corner columns remain standing today.

Journey to discover the coastal towers in Puglia

There are no real itineraries to choose from to discover the coastal towers in Salento. Many of the towers are located close to some of the most famous holiday resorts, others immersed in suggestive oases, sandwiched between wild nature and the typical crystalline sea that bathes the coastal areas.

This unusual tour of the ancient coastal towers in Salento is a nice and different way to experience the area, to get to know the unique places and landscapes of a timeless, beautiful and fascinating Puglia!

I will list just some of the most important towers that populate the coasts of Salento starting from the Gargano to the tip of Capo di Leuca and then going up to Taranto.

The Towers in the province of Foggia

In the province of Foggia the coastal towers extend along the entire coast of the Gargano and significant are those erected in the territory of the Municipality of San Nicandro Garganico: Torre Calarossa, of which today only a few ruins remain and Torre Mileto, built on a quadrangular base, as imposing as a few others with the four corners facing the cardinal points, it also has five machicolations and a stone staircase which leads to the first floor.

The Towers in the province of Bari

Going down towards Bari, one of the most important is Torre Calderina, between Molfetta and Bisceglie, in the center of a splendid area where in addition to the Mediterranean scrub there are archaeological sites, ancient villas, trulli, dry stone walls, caves, liame and pebble beaches . In the land of Bari one of the most evocative remains that of San Vito which takes its name from the nearby Abbey in the territory of Polignano a Mare.

The Towers in the province of Taranto

Long sandy beaches and a crystalline sea characterize the coast up to the border with the territory of Taranto where Torre Colimena stands, in the municipality of Manduria, which with its machicolations and the signs of the drawbridge placed close to the staircase, guards the long stretch of golden beach.

The Towers in the province of Brindisi

In the province of Brindisi, among the best preserved towers we find that of Torre Guaceto inside the natural park of the same name where you can stop to observe passing and resident birds, and the imposing Torre Santa Sabina on the coast of the town of Carovigno. Worth a stop and a photographic memory are Torre Specchiolla on the border between the territories of Brindisi and Lecce, Torre Sant’Andrea in Melendugno and the Torri del Serpe and dell’Orte in Otranto.

The Towers in the province of Lecce

• From San Foca you reach Roca Vecchia, a once thriving Messapian city and then a very active port equipped with a fortress of which the evocative ruins are preserved. The tower, also reduced to ruins, dates back to 1568 and has the typical truncated pyramid structure just like Torre dell’Orso in the seaside resort of the same name.

• Once in Otranto we head to L’Orte. First you come across the cylindrical Torre del Serpe. Further on are the Masseria dell’Orte and the Torre dell’Orte, a large and low truncated pyramid structure which served as a fort.

• Returning to the coast road, you head towards Torre Sant’Emiliano where a truncated cone tower dominates one of the most beautiful stretches of the eastern Salento coast. The coastal road leads to Porto Badisco and Santa Cesarea, locations defended by Torre Minervino, Torre Specchia di Guardia, Torre Santa Cesarea and the imposing Torre Miggiano.

• On the Ionian side, between Ugento and the Nardò marina, the Palude del Capitano extends, a wetland where a particular marshy habitat has been created. Watching over the caves is a sixteenth-century giant but now almost reduced to a ruin: Torre Uluzzo, known as Porto Selvaggio.

• In Santa Maria al Bagno you can admire the Torre del Fiume, better known as the “Four Columns”, because the perimeter walls of an ancient castle collapsed.

• Continuing towards Gallipoli, before reaching the Torre del Pizzo, you pass through one of the most naturalistically interesting areas of the province of Lecce.

• Continuing south you come across Torre Suda, while in the territory of Ugento you will find Torre San Giovanni, one of the most “in” places on the coast, where the landscape becomes even more suggestive thanks to a dense pine forest with specimens of Aleppo pine that extends onto the beach.