Salento Orecchiette: the original recipe

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The symbol of Puglia in Italy and around the world are the Salento Orecchiette, a fresh pasta format, which is prepared by hand, with a round and concave shape. Orecchiette have a wrinkled surface, a thick edge and a thinner interior. This consistency makes them perfect for seasoning in various ways: usually with turnip greens, but they can also be enjoyed with a ragù or as you prefer. The ingredients to prepare them are very few and for this reason making them at home is very easy, especially if you acquire the right manual skills which, as they are prepared, will come naturally.

Apulian Orecchiette
Apulian Orecchiette ©Ne_Cloud via Canva

How to prepare Salento orecchiette:

Ingredients for 4 people:

  • 500 g of re-milled durum wheat semolina
  • 200 g of water at room temperature
  • salt to taste

Method:

  1. Pour the re-milled durum wheat flour onto a pastry board, then make a well and add a pinch of salt.
  2. In the center of the flour fountain, gradually pour in the room temperature water, then incorporate the flour little by little until it absorbs all the water.
  3. Work the dough for about 10 minutes with your hands until you obtain a homogeneous and elastic dough which you can give a round shape to.
  4. Cover the dough with a cloth and let it rest at room temperature for about 15 minutes.
  5. After the dough has rested, with the help of a pastry cutter, cut it into strips about a centimeter thick.
  6. Cut the dough strips into pieces of about one centimeter.

At this point, the time has come to make the orecchiette: you will need a smooth-bladed knife and the advice is to initially give the piece of dough a round shape. With the knife, press on the ball starting from the upper edge, dragging the blade towards you, until the ball becomes concave. Then turn the small ear on itself to give it the typical shape we all know it with. Once prepared, these orecchiette can be dried covered with a dry cloth. In this way, they can be stored for about a month. As for cooking, being a fresh pasta, it will take 5 minutes in boiling salted water.

Curiosities about Orecchiette

Orecchiette are typical throughout Puglia but have a different name in each place where they are prepared: there are “chianchiarelle“, the smaller ones; the “orecchie del prete” (priest’s ears), the larger ones or even the “strascinati” (the dragged ones). Numerous festivals are also dedicated to Orecchiette, such as “Orecchiette nelle ‘Nnchiosce” held in Grottaglie, an event in which various chefs prepare dishes featuring Orecchiette to revive local and gastronomic traditions for those who participate.

Orecchiette with turnip greens is one of the symbolic dishes of the Apulian gastronomic tradition, especially in the province of Bari but is prepared throughout the region. It is a first course that has origins in the peasant tradition, simple but really tasty, a must on the menus of many restaurants. In this dish, the delicacy and roughness of fresh pasta marries beautifully with the strong (and sometimes bitter) flavor of turnip greens and anchovies.

The history of orecchiette with turnip greens dates back to the medieval period, between the 12th and 13th centuries, the period of Norman-Swabian domination, in the area of Sannicandro di Bari. Once ready, the pasta was dried so that it could be preserved for periods more or less long, even on ships leaving for long voyages. Considered a dowry, with the inheritance passed from mother to daughter, orecchiette would have spread to the rest of Puglia and Basilicata.

Orecchiette with turnip greens
Orecchiette with turnip greens ©katrinshine via Canva

Recipe of orecchiette with turnip greens

Ingredients:

  • 500 g of orecchiette
  • 1 kg of turnip greens
  • 10 anchovy fillets in oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • extra virgin olive oil to taste
  • Salt to taste
  • chili pepper to taste

Preparation:

  1. First, clean the turnip greens and then place them in a pan of salted water and bring to the boil.
  2. Add the orecchiette to the turnip tops to cook them together.
  3. Separately, in a pan, fry the garlic and anchovy fillets until they melt.
  4. To taste, add chilli and salt.
  5. Drain the orecchiette and turnip tops and sauté them in the pan with the anchovies until all the ingredients are mixed.

In combination with this recipe, you can enjoy a full-bodied and soft white wine that tempers the bitterness of the turnip greens.

An example is the equally Apulian Verdeca IGT from Valle d’Itria or the Bianco d’Alessano.

Pallone di Gravina is a semi-hard raw stretched cheese, produced with whole raw bovine milk from farms in the Murgia Alta and Fossa Bradanica basin. It is essentially a caciocavallo without a head and with a rounded shape which is produced from January to March and is excellent after three months of maturation. Its weight ranges from 1 to 10kg.

Originating from the Gravina area, from which it takes its name, it is currently produced in the Gravina in Puglia, Matera and Murgia Alta areas.

Gravina Pallone
Gravina Pallone

Cheese preparation

The milk with which this particular Murgia cheese is prepared comes from Podolica breed cattle. Its history is quite ancient, being already known at the time of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, considered as one of the most popular cheeses in southern Italy.
The production technique of Pallone is similar to that of caciocavallo.

  • Liquid calf rennet or lamb or kid paste is added to the milk.
  • Once the curd is formed, cut into slices, it is stretched with hot water, then collected and left to stand on the “tompagno”.
  • It is in this phase that the cheese is given its characteristic spherical shape.
  • The next phase involves salting in brine, after which the balls are left to dry for a couple of weeks and then left to dry in the cellar.

The rind of the ball will be hard, smooth, robust, straw-coloured which tends towards brown or grey-brown in the more mature forms; the paste is stretched, raw, smooth, straw-coloured which tends towards golden with maturation, with possible slight holes.

How to consume Gravina Pallone

It can be consumed fresh after about 3 weeks, but is especially appreciated if aged for at least 3 or 4 months. In this way the maturing will allow it to acquire a pleasant note of spiciness.

Today, Pallone of Gravina is one of the traditional regional products. It is generally eaten in starters or in the middle of a sandwich together with mortadella. Sometimes it can be also melted on some dishes to give them more flavour.

Today this dairy product has also become a Slow Food presidium, to protect its uniqueness and safeguard its quality.

Perhaps the only bakery product to boast the prestigious DOP mark: Altamura bread. Known throughout the world thanks to its fragrance and flavor, this bread has become part of the Apulian cultural and gastronomic heritage.

Altamura Bread
Altamura Bread

The origins

A bread created and designed to meet the needs of shepherds and farmers for whom it was an essential and daily food. In fact, they sometimes had to stay away from home for several days in the masserie, typical farms in the countryside around the city. So a large loaf of bread that could be consumed for several days was a precious resource, to say the least.

A centuries-old tradition of which we have traces since the Roman poet Horace, who in his Satires praises the bakeries of the area and advises travelers not to miss the delicious bread.

There are two traditional ones:

  • u Scquanét, taller
  • a cappidde de prévete (priest’s hat) lower and with less crumb.

The original recipe

This famous bread is made from the semolina of some specific varieties of durum wheat (appulo, arcangelo, duilio, simeto) grown in Altamura and in some neighboring municipalities (Gravina di Puglia, Poggiorsini), in the territory now delimited by the regulations of the protection consortium.

From the Middle Ages until today little has changed: the recipe is still the same, simple, as it was centuries ago (durum wheat semolina, water, fine salt and mother yeast), the ovens are still the traditional stone ones, the taste is still exceptional.

The rules for obtaining the Pane di Altamura DOP denomination

Unlike the Middle Ages, however, now the protection consortium has established strict rules for production and precise characteristics that a true Pane di Altamura DOP must respect:

  • a weight of no less than 0.5 kg,
  • a crust with a minimum thickness of 3mm
  • humidity not exceeding 33%
  • the dough must be made with sourdough which is obtained with a minimum of three renewals
  • Furthermore, 20kg of natural yeast, 2kg of sea salt, 60lt of water (temperature of 18°) are expected for every quintal of re-milled durum wheat semolina.

The kneading lasts 20 minutes and is carried out with a mixer with diving arms. The leavening is expected to take place under a cotton cloth and must last at least 90 minutes before proceeding to a second resting phase. This second phase begins with weighing and continues with shaping which is carried out manually. After a subsequent phase of another 30 minutes of rest, we move on to reshaping and a third rest phase followed by further manual shaping and another 15 minutes of rest.

At that point all that remains is to inform the mixture but before that, it is turned upside down and, with a light pressure of the hand, it is accompanied into the oven previously brought to a temperature of 250°. After an initial cooking period of 15 minutes in the open oven, it is closed. We wait another 45 minutes.

Are you planning your next holidays in Salento? Here are the 10 things to do during your stay in this peninsula jutting out into the Mediterranean.

It’s difficult not to fall in love with Salento. It is capable of fascinating you even before visiting it and there are many places crowded every year, both in summer and winter, by Italian and foreign tourists from all over the world. Salento is a very large land, so rich in interesting places and wonderful landscapes, that it is not always easy to be able to move in the right way, especially when you have only a few days of vacation available.

1) Visit the historic center of Lecce

Roman amphitheater, Lecce
Roman amphitheater, Lecce ©Planetix via Canva

A fascinating city, rich in history and tradition, characterized by a historic center as beautiful as few in the world. A triumph of Baroque style decorations and constructions, made with the refined Lecce stone, golden and extremely resistant. The masterpiece of the city is the Basilica of Santa Croce, symbol of Lecce’s baroque. The streets are always alive, with a very friendly atmosphere full of people in cafes and groups of friends enjoying an ice cream or street food. Anything else to see? Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the elegant living room of Lecce, the Roman amphitheater and the Palazzo del Seggio, or Seat, home to art exhibitions and exhibitions, together with the Carlo V castle. All immersed in a unique and evocative atmosphere.

2) Our delicacies

Mostaccioli
Mostaccioli ©sara-tm via Canva

To the delight of those with a sweet tooth, who don’t want to give up a little indulgence even on holiday: pasticciotto is a typical dessert from the area, made of shortcrust pastry and filled with custard. Indeed, this is the original and delicious recipe for pasticciotto, although today other variations have spread which offer pasticciotto flavored with chocolate cream, cream and Nutella, or jam, up to the “Obama pasticciotto”. The latter was invented by the Cherì pastry shop, from Campi Salentina, which to pay homage to the president of the United States created a pasticciotto with cream and chocolate filling.

Certainly, all almond-based desserts are very famous: from “dry pastries” to the typical mostaccioli, without forgetting the almond paste used as icing on cakes or as the main ingredient for the Easter lamb. We also find puccia with olives which is one of the delicacies of the Salento bakery. Fragrant and genuine, it will surprise you with a unique taste, perfect for a quick meal on the beach or for a tasty snack.

3) Otranto

Gallipoli
Gallipoli ©Ladiras via Canva

After Lecce, let’s head further south and reach the Otranto area: there are many places to visit in these parts. Let’s start from the Alimini lakes, two bodies of water close to the sea surrounded by greenery and a few steps from beautiful beaches of fine sand.

Next, the characteristic Bauxite lake is worth a stop, a place out of this world that will surprise you with its surreal colours. Finally, absolutely not to be missed is the Punta Palascìa lighthouse, the most eastern place in Italy, perched on a very spectacular rocky and jagged coast.

And, after visiting the surroundings, don’t miss the beautiful ancient village of Otranto: the port, the castle and above all the cathedral, with its spectacular Byzantine floor mosaics, will leave an indelible mark on your mind.

4) Take a bath in the Maldives of Salento

Gallipoli
Gallipoli ©Ladiras via Canva

An obligatory stop for every self-respecting tourist, in Marina di Pescoluse you will find very fine white sand and a crystal clear sea welcoming you. Characteristics that have earned this magical place comparison with the famous exotic location, so renowned for its beauty.

5) Attend a local festival

Apulian festivals
Apulian festivals ©www.pugliasera.it

Many are organised: we are talking about local festivals which are usually the celebration of a Salento specialty, local delicacies, accompanied by a triumph of music and lots of fun and we also find the popular village festivals, often dedicated to the patron saint. You just have to choose the one you like best, there is fried fish, frisa, aubergine, horse meat, watermelon and much more.

6) Enjoy the view from the Ciolo bridge

Ciolo Bridge
Ciolo Bridge ©tagstiles via Canva

A scenic location in the Gagliano del Capo area, on the eastern coast of Salento, Ciolo takes its name from the “ciole“, the dialect name of the crows that populate the small canyon, circling over the intense blue of the sea. Carved out over the millennia by meteorite waters, the Ciolo is crossed by a bridge approximately 30 meters high and in front you will have a breathtaking view, which overlooks the very small beach where the sea is almost always calm and where, in summer, you can admire the pirouettes and acrobatics of the divers who choose the high cliffs for their exploits.

7) Visit Santa Maria di Leuca: Finibus terrae

Santa Maria di Leuca lighthouse
Santa Maria di Leuca lighthouse ©diegofiore via Canva

Among the most beautiful cities in Salento, Santa Maria di Leuca is certainly not to be missed. In the last strip of Puglia only the sea marks the edge of the horizon. In summer, the emerald sea teems with life and white boats. The jagged coastline runs from Punta Mèliso to Punta Rìstola: sandy coves, ravines, caves, small inlets draw the line of the Ionian and Adriatic coasts which meet in front of the lighthouse of Punta Mèliso and the Sanctuary. From here you will have a fantastic view of the entire coast and the marina, truly unforgettable, especially at sunset.

On the promontory of Santa Maria di Leuca you can still see traces of ancient settlements, magical caves and splendid nineteenth-century villas. After the rocks overlooking the sea we will find Santa Cesarea Terme, the wild nature of Castro and the port of Tricase. The most famous caves? The Devil’s Cave, near Punta Rìstola, the Giants’ Cave and the Nativity Scene Cave.

8) Walk in the Salento countryside

Itria Valley
Itria Valley ©batock via Canva

During a holiday in Salento, it is worth taking long walks on the outskirts of the towns, all surrounded by large green spaces, dominated by centuries-old olive trees with twisted shapes, vineyards, red earth and plants typical of Mediterranean vegetation. Don’t miss a nice regenerating walk among the various dry stone walls that intersperse one property with another and why not, take a short break or a picnic accompanying the meal with a good new red wine and some typical delicacies of the area. The countryside is also suitable for trekking lovers and hikers who want to explore the area, get to know a part of Salento’s biodiversity and come across some ruined farmhouse or trullo, if you are in the Alberobello areas.

9) Dancing the pizzica

Salento Pizzica
Salento Pizzica ©www.turistiinpuglia.it

The Taranta Festival is certainly the Salento event par excellence, which every year, in the month of August, sees many squares in the Salento villages packed with people dancing to the sound of tambourines and guitars. The Taranta Festival is a traveling festival that takes place within some Salento municipalities, almost all belonging to Grecìa Salentina. Towns such as Martano, Sternatia, Cutrofiano, Galatina, ending, as usual, with the famous Notte della Taranta, in Melpignano it is an extraordinary folkloristic event with popular music that aims to enhance and spread Salento culture and traditions.

10) Boat excursion

Boat Tour in Puglia
Boat Tour in Puglia ©kentarus via Canva

Among the things to do in Salento whether you are on the Ionian side or on the Adriatic side, a boat tour is always highly recommended, as along the coast there are often cavities dug by the incessant action of the waves and agents atmospheric.
The coast of Salento is wonderful and varied and small boats often allow you to stop in the most beautiful places for swimming in crystal clear waters.

Carved into the rocky coast you will find a series of caves: the Poesia cave, in the Roca Vecchia area, between San Foca and Torre dell’Orso. Near Porto Badisco, the Deer Cave, decorated with Neolithic pictograms depicting deer hunting. Towards Castro, the Azzurra cave, the Palombara cave and the Zinzulusa cave, up to the Romanelli cave, a few hundred meters apart. Between Castro and Santa Maria di Leuca, the Dragon Cave, known for a stalactite in the shape of a prehistoric monster. Still towards the south, the Cipollane cave, with its seabed colored by red coral.

So, have we convinced you to pack your bags and move here for your summer in Salento?

Apulian pastarelle are typical “soaked” milk (or tea) biscuits that are prepared in different ways throughout Puglia. The Apulian bakeries churn out pasta of all kinds every day to meet the different needs of their customers but they can also be prepared at home because few ingredients and little manual skills are needed. In this way you will obtain more genuine breakfast biscuits compared to the commercial ones found in supermarkets. For this reason they are often present during breakfasts or snacks for adults and children.

Apulian pastarelle
Apulian pastarelle

Pastarelle from Puglia: the recipe

To prepare Apulian pastarella you need a few simple ingredients to bring a tasty and fragrant, authentic and traditional product to the table.

Ingredients:

  • 1 kg of flour
  • 300 g of sugar
  • 150 ml of extra virgin olive oil
  • 400 ml of milk
  • 6 eggs
  • grated peel of one lemon
  • 1 sachet of ammonia for desserts

Method:

  1. Heat the milk and, once lukewarm, dissolve the ammonia in it.
  2. Add all the ingredients (even the milk with ammonia) into a large bowl and mix with a whisk to eliminate any lumps.
  3. Cover the baking tray with baking paper and, with the help of a spoon, roll out the dough, spacing the pastries a few centimetres.
  4. Before baking, brush a little beaten egg and sugar on the biscuits.
  5. Bake in a preheated ventilated oven at 250° for 10 minutes and then in a static oven for 5 minutes.

The pastries thus obtained can be stored for a few days in an airtight container or in a dry place.

Pastarelle Salento: the recipe

Then there is the recipe for Salento pastarelle, traditional milk or tea biscuits, very fragrant and scented.

Ingredients:

  • 1 kg of flour
  • 300 g of sugar
  • 4 eggs
  • 300 ml of milk
  • 160 ml of extra virgin olive oil
  • 20 g of ammonia for desserts
  • 2 sachets of vanillin
  • grated peel of one lemon

Method:

  1. On a pastry board, create a well with the flour, add the eggs, sugar, grated lemon peel, oil, vanillin and ammonia.
  2. Mix the mixture and gradually add the milk until the consistency becomes neither too soft nor too hard.
  3. Roll out the dough obtained with a rolling pin until it becomes a rectangle with a thickness of about one centimeter.
  4. Shape the pastries into small rectangles and place them on a baking tray covered with baking paper.
  5. Before baking, brush the egg white and sugar onto the biscuits.
  6. Bake in a preheated oven at 170° for 25 minutes.

Also in this case the pastries can be stored for a few days in an airtight container.

How to prepare Apulian Pastarelle with the Thermomix

Although they can be easily prepared by hand without the use of a food processor, here’s how to prepare Apulian pastarelle with the Thermomix.

Ingredients:

  • 650 g of flour
  • 180 g of sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 80 g of milk
  • 180 g of seed oil
  • grated peel of one lemon
  • 1 sachet of vanillin
  • 1 sachet of ammonia for desserts
  • a pinch of salt
  • icing sugar to taste

Method:

  1. Place the sugar and lemon zest in the bowl and mix for 10 seconds at speed 10.
  2. Add the eggs and oil and mix on speed 4 for 30 seconds.
  3. Add the warm milk, ammonia, vanillin and salt to the mixing bowl and mix for 10 seconds at speed 4.
  4. Finally, add the flour and work in “Spiga” mode for 2 minutes.
  5. Give the dough a rectangular shape, then form the different pastries and place them on a baking tray lined with baking paper.
  6. Sprinkle the icing sugar and bake in a preheated, static oven at 180° for 12 minutes and finally in a fan oven.

In the rediscovery of Apulian food culture, the role of homemade pasta was fundamental. A rustic pasta prepared by mixing traditional durum wheat flour with re-milled semolina flour, with a pale yellow colour. The dough is made only with water, eggs are rarely added as is the tradition of Emilian or Piedmontese pasta for example.

Homemade pasta
Homemade pasta

The different forms of Apulian homemade pasta

  • The shape of homemade pasta is very varied. The traditional strips of pasta, resembling tagliatelle, can be made in many ways. By rolling out the puff pastry thinly and then cutting it with a knife they are called trie, with which the famous soup with chickpeas is made: “ciceri e trie”.
  • Or with a special rolling pin equipped with blades and then they are called troccoli, always shaped like tagliatelle but with an oval section. These are used to accompany meat sauces (veal or, better yet, horse) which fall apart during long cooking.
  • Then there is the large family of “strascinate” pastas, that is, strips of pasta whose shape is given with a skilful stroke of the fingers by dragging them on the work surface, such as cavatelli, with an elongated shape or the very famous orecchiette, small disks of pasta that a deft flick of the index finger transforms into the ideal pasta to be accompanied by sauces based on stewed vegetables, such as the famous turnip tops, of disarming simplicity but with an unforgettable taste.
  • And then we remember the twisted pappardelle, strips of pasta folded on themselves and intertwined, the sagne ‘ncannulate, also suitable for particularly tasty sauces.
  • There is also a large and varied family, that of maccheroni, pasta made with the help of a special iron, cut into strips and worked by sliding it on the wire, until it gives the desired shape, including the unforgettable minchiareddi. Their hollow shape seems to have been created specifically to accommodate tomato sauce.

As for desserts, which are one of the main characteristics of the gastronomic tradition of Salento, there are different types, but the one that most represents lower Puglia is the Lecce pasticciotto.

The basic ingredients of this dessert are very simple: shortcrust pastry, made strictly with lard, banishing butter and margarine, and custard.

Lecce pasticciotto
Lecce pasticciotto ©sabinoparente via Canva

Origins of the Lecce pasticciotto

Its origin dates back to at least the eighteenth century, one of the most widespread stories is that which associates the birth of pasticciotto with the Ascalone family’s pastry shop in Galatina during the celebrations for San Paolo, a legend which however has no foundation.

There are those who make everything simpler, saying that this dessert is just one of the many variations of the Abruzzo bocconotto, given the similarity, or there are also those who derive it from the Neapolitan pasticciotto, which involves the addition of black cherries.

Where to eat Lecce pasticciotto

From Lecce downwards, the breakfast ritual includes coffee and pasticciotto. Numerous pastry shops have become famous thanks to this dessert and there are many addresses where you can taste it. However, you must be careful not to come across pre-packaged and defrosted products on occasion, otherwise you run the risk of not only being disappointed but also leaving an unpleasant taste in your mouth. Unfortunately, it often happens that to speed up the process, the same technique as for frozen croissants is adopted. Industrial products are bought that do not have any of the typical characteristics of pasticciotto.

In Lecce you can find the Natale patisserie, in Via Trinchese, but good pasticciotti can also be found at Cadorna in Piazza d’Italia. Best known on a tourist level is the Caffè Alvino in Piazza Sant’Oronzo.

Moving into the province, in Galatina there is the aforementioned Ascalone pastry shop, while in Nardò, before selling the business, the best pasticciotto was found in the Egidio pastry shop. For those who want a more refined version of the dessert, in the Malcandrino restaurant in Monteroni, the chef offers a young reinterpretation of the decomposed pasticciotto.

In Masseria Stali, in Caprarica, where Rita and Leo Piccinno’s cuisine is genuine and proposed as homemade, the pasticciotto Leccese is available in a cake version, which is cut and served in slices to diners.
In Gallipoli we note the Caffetteria Martinucci and in San Cataldo the Pasticceria Nobile.

The original recipe for Pasticciotto Leccese:

Ingredients:

  • 500 g. made with flour
  • 250 g. of butter
  • 200 g. of sugar
  • 3 egg yolks

For the cream:

  • Half liter of milk
  • 3 eggs
  • 125 g. of sugar
  • 1 sachet of vanillin

Method:

  1. To make the shortcrust pastry, combine the butter and flour with your hands. Make a well and place the egg yolks with the sugar in the center, mixing very quickly. Form a ball and wrap it in cling film, keeping it in the fridge for 30 minutes.
  2. For the cream, however, take a bowl and mix the eggs, sugar and vanilla, adding the sifted flour a little at a time. Pour the boiling milk over the mixture and place on the heat, stirring until boiling. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
  3. Form 30 cm discs. with the previously rolled shortcrust pastry, fill the bottom of the mould, pour in the cream and cover with the second disc. Remember to close the edge and bake for 20 minutes at 180°.

Variations of pasticciotto

The pasticciotto from Lecce, despite being very simple, over the years has conquered the primacy of Salento pastry making and has been included in the national list of traditional agri-food products. The best way to taste it is to eat it hot, freshly baked. Naturally, numerous variations were then born from the basic recipe: black cherry jam, chocolate cream can be added to the custard and there is also a version with cocoa shortcrust pastry.

Extravirgin olive oil is a true pride of the Apulian culinary tradition, well known in Italy and in the rest of the world. Puglia is the leading producer of extra virgin olive oil in Italy (it alone manages to produce around 60% of all national production). Four types of Apulian extra virgin olive oil have received the Protected Designation of Origin (DOP): Dauno, Colline di Brindisi, Terra d’Otranto and Terra di Bari.

But the green gold of Puglia has also been awarded many international recognitions and prestigious prizes such as the Silver Medal Award in Los Angeles or first place at the New York International Olive Oil Competition, both awarded in 2016 to the organic oil from Frantoio Raguso in Gravina in Puglia.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

History of Apulian extravirgin olive oil

For centuries, all the activities relating to the production of extra virgin olive oil have been handed down from generation to generation to ensure a product of excellent quality. All phases follow precise schemes that lead to obtaining one of the best extra virgin olive oils in Italy.

  • In the past, extra virgin olive oil was used not only as a food but also as a beauty product or as fuel for lamps. In Puglia it is probable that olive trees have been present since the Mesolithic, however initially its potential was not well understood. What is certain is that cultivation was introduced by the Greeks while the pressing and cultivation procedures can be attributed to the Romans.
  • In subsequent eras, Puglia had already established itself as the largest producer of olive oil, so much so that it was necessary to find a way to best preserve it and protect it from the hands of dangerous foreigners. Thus, from 1200 until the mid-1700s, the old granaries of the Messapian age were replaced by underground oil mills, called underground oil mills.
  • The arrival of the Byzantines in the 9th century, in fact, marked a change in trade direction, moving from that of grain to that of oil. The underground oil mills were nothing more than underground structures (dug from two to five meters below street level) which allowed the olives and oil to be processed and preserved in the best possible way since here the temperature remained more stable than outside where however, especially in summer, it could become too high and alter both the fruit and the oil obtained. These mills also responded to the need to make pressing the olives easier given the heat that could be generated here thanks to the lights or the breath of men and animals brought underground. Furthermore, the various processing phases of the trappitari (the workers) could be hidden from the prying eyes of possible enemies. In any case, even if the apogee oil mills are now abandoned, they represent an increasingly popular tourist attraction in Salento.

Many techniques and processing procedures have reached the present day and are still applied to the many olive trees. The olive tree manages to guarantee good production for several years, however it needs a lot of care especially in spring to ensure flowering and in summer to allow the olives to grow larger and the stone to harden. Only with good fertilization and the right amount of water will it be possible to obtain excellent extra virgin olive oil.

The production areas of Apulian extravirgin olive oil

Puglia has been divided into nine extr virgin olive oil production areas based on cultivation parameters. They take into consideration different territories and climatic conditions, the average number of plants per hectare, the varieties of olives, the harvesting methods, squeezing and processing and productivity. The types of Apulian extra virgin olive oil from the areas of Daunia, Terra di Bari, Brindisi and Terra d’Otranto have been awarded the Protected Designation of Origin (DOP).

In each of these areas an oil is produced with different characteristics given by the different olives from which it is obtained. Sweeter and fruitier, more intense or spicier or slightly bitter, typical of oil obtained from green and not yet fully ripe olives. In any case, these are extra virgin olive oils that can meet the different tastes of tasters’ palates.

DAUNIA

In particular, the first production area of Apulian extra virgin olive oil is that of Daunia. The types of olives from this area give the extra virgin olive oil produced a fruity and sweet taste. In particular:

  • Daunia-Gargano is an oil produced from the Ogliarola olive with an aromatic scent and suitable for pairing with soups and legumes but also with appetizers.
  • the Daunia-Sub Apennine and lower Tavoliere is made from the Coratina olive which gives it a bitter note making it perfect for seasoning bruschetta or salads.
  • the Daunia alto Tavoliere is obtained from the Peranzana olive which enriches the oil with a floral scent that goes well with seafood dishes.

LAND OF BARI

The second production area is that of the Terra di Bari where there are three types of extra virgin olive oil.

  • Castel del Monte (the area north of Bari), made from the Coratina olive, has a spicy and slightly bitter flavour. It can be used to enrich bruschetta, salads or boiled vegetables.
  • Bitonto, produced with Cima di Bitonto and Ogliarola olives which give the oil a hint of almond and a more balanced flavor that lends itself well to accompanying grilled meat or roasts.
  • Murgia dei Trulli e delle Grotte (south of Bari), obtained with the Cima di Mola olive, is the sweetest and used on raw dishes.

BRINDISI

The third production area is that of Brindisi province (Carovigno, Ceglie Messapica, Cisternino, Ostuni, San Vito dei Normanni, Sammichele Salentino, Villa Castelli and Fasano). Here, Colline extra virgin olive oil is produced, made with different olives. 30% Leccino, Coratina and Frantoio and 70% Ogliarola Barese which, overall, give the oil a sweet flavor making it perfect for seasoning fish or first dishes.

LAND OF OTRANTO

Finally, the Terra d’Otranto is another production area that includes municipalities in the province of Lecce and the province of Taranto. 3 types of extra virgin olive oil are produced here, all fruity and very aromatic, perfect for raw seasoning different foods or dishes.

  • Terra d’Otranto (area south of Brindisi) is obtained with Collina di Nardò or Saracena and Ogliarola olives from Lecce or Salento.
  • Terra d’Otranto (eastern Taranto area) is always made with Collina di Nardò or Saracena and Ogliarola olives from Lecce or Salento.
  • Tarantine (western Taranto area) is produced from Leccino-Frantoio and Coratina olives.

Recipes with Apulian extravirgin olive oil

Even though extravirgin olive oil is often not the main ingredient of a dish, it contributes to giving flavor and delicacy to many dishes. There are some recipes that manage to enhance the flavor of this precious ingredient such as the typical bruschetta. Even the typical Apulian frisella, seasoned only with oregano, salt and extra virgin olive oil, becomes a tasty and satiating appetizer or aperitif.

Moving on to the first courses, the Pancotto, made with stale bread and seasoned with potatoes, turnip greens and tomatoes, all washed down with plenty of oil. Another first course that can be made starring Apulian extra virgin olive oil is spaghetti with garlic, oil and chilli pepper.

Perhaps not everyone knows that Apulian extravirgin olive oil is also widely used for sweet preparations as a substitute for butter or seed oil. It can be used to create genuine olive oil cakes or donuts because they are made only with flour, milk, sugar, eggs and oil. This ingredient alone can make the dessert lighter but at the same time tasty without the need to add cocoa, chocolate or cream.

Pittule are a typical dish of Salento gastronomy, handed down by housewives and by our mothers and grandmothers, they are a delicacy that is prepared especially in the autumn and winter period.

Here we present a recipe to better understand the preparation and the ingredients that can be used to best enjoy these typical Salento delicacies.

Pittule or Pettule are traditional Apulian leavened dough fritters and can be prepared in different ways: with lampascioni, turnip greens, mussels, vegetables, with black olives and capers and finally inserted into the dough together with delicious dried tomatoes and then again with shrimp, calamari, cod or cauliflower.

In short, they are a nutritious dish, easy to prepare and suitable for all tastes, even the most particular ones.

Salento pittule
Salento pittule ©foodphotographer.puglia via Canva

The recipe for Salento pittule

Ingredients:

  • 1 kg of flour
  • a cube of brewer’s yeast
  • warm water
  • Salt to taste
  • olive oil for frying

Preparation:

  1. Pour the flour into a large enough container, add the yeast dissolved in the warm water and the salt, work the dough for a long time until it is quite elastic and homogeneous.
  2. Leave it to rest under a wool blanket for about three hours.
  3. After this time, put the olive oil on the heat, take the dough and knead it again.
  4. The frying procedure is as follows: take a little dough and close it in the fist of your hand, with the other hand (always wet) collect the ball that comes out and throw it into the boiling oil.
  5. Take them out with the slotted spoon when they are golden brown and place them on absorbent paper.
  6. You can use the same dough to make “mixed” pittule. Take a little dough in your hands, wrap it in the pepper (or previously boiled pieces of cauliflower) and dip it in oil. Or you can prepare a mixture of finely chopped onion, cherry tomatoes, chilli pepper, capers, anchovies, salt, add everything to the mixture and fry balls a little larger than those obtained by clenching your fists.